Every diver always knows that he/she needs to get a scuba tank.  The scuba tank is essential in the fact that it is used for transporting a high pressure breathing gas.  There are two main different types of scuba tanks.  These include the aluminum tanks and steel tanks.  The tanks differ in construction, weight, and working pressure; hence a diver can always get the ultimate tank size.

What is Scuba Tank

This is a type of gas cylinder mainly used for the purpose of carrying high-pressure breathing gas by the diver.  The tanks can be used for three main purposes.  First, it can be used for an emergency gas supply for the scuba.  Secondly, it can also be used for decompression gas and surface supplied diving gas for the divers.

Type of Scuba Diving Tanks

There are two main types of scuba tanks namely steel tanks and aluminum tanks.

Steel Tanks

The steel tanks are known to be durable and rugged.  The tank is relatively lighter with thicker walls.  Due to this, they don’t need much maintenance cost and can serve you for years.  The volume of the steel tank is estimated to be about 80-100 cubic feet and can weigh up to 30-31 pounds.  The thicker wall of these tanks will always compensate for the reduced tensile strength, making it great for all users.

Aluminum Tanks

The aluminum tank is kind of cost-efficient with low maintenance costs.  This type of scuba tank is relatively lighter compared to the steel types since it has a dry weight of about 28-30 pounds. Besides this, the capacity is about 80 cubic feet and a standard pressure of about 3000 psi.  The aluminum tank is kind of softer compared to the steel type, which is why most of them can easily scratch.  Due to this, they don’t last long like the steel tanks.

Scuba Tank Buying Guide

Irrespective of your level of diving, it is vital to get the best scuba tanks.  Here are some of the main considerations to check out before buying a scuba tank;

Tank Capacity

The scuba tanks have been designed in different sizes.  Depending on your level of diving, you need to get the ideal size that will suit you.  For example, for the larger divers, you need to get a larger tank due to the greater gas consumption rate.  Besides this, for the recreational divers, you need to consider tanks with a capacity of 80-100 cubic feet.  Lastly, for a young diver, a tank of about 63 cubic feet will perfectly suit you.

Number of Tanks

A single tank is never enough for the professional divers.  In most cases, you need to get at least two tanks to keep you safe.  With this, you can always dive with a lot of confidence as you won’t run out of gas.

Low-Pressure Vs. High Pressure

Since the steel types of scuba tanks feature in high and low-pressure types, you have to weigh out the ideal selection that will serve you.  The high-pressure tanks are more convenient though needs high maintenance. F or example, the high-pressure tank needs the DIN regulator and not Yoke.  This implies that when you got the Yoke, you have to change the regulator.  Apart from this, expect the high-pressure tanks to fail in the 5-year hydro inspection, unlike the low pressure.

Aluminum Vs. Steel Tanks

It is also important to make a decision between choosing a steel or aluminum type of tank.  The steel tanks are prone to rusting, unlike the aluminum tanks.  Secondly, the steel tank will always require a tank boot at the bottom.  This is because they lack more metal at the bottom as seen in aluminum tanks.  One advantage of the steel tank is that it is heavier; hence the diver wears less weight.  Despite these differences, they have equal capacities; hence you need to find one that will perfectly suit you.

Top Aluminum Scuba Diving Tanks

1. Cyl-Tec 80 Cubic Feet Scuba Diving Tanks

With a working pressure of up to 3000 psi and a capacity of 80 cubic feet, this is a great diving tank that will suit your diving needs.  The tank is designed to suit both experienced and beginner divers, which makes it a versatile choice.  The lightweight tank has a salt water buoyancy of about 3.8lbs and 1.9lbs when empty and full respectively.  Additionally, it has a height of about 29.75-inches including the valve.

Features

• 3000 psi working pressure
• 80 cubic feet capacity
• New combo valve

2. Catalina 80 Cubic Feet Aluminum Scuba Tank

This is a perfect scuba tank that has been designed in different colors.  With this, every diver can get his/her favorite color.  Second, to this, the tank is 40% nitrox ready and has a weight of 31.6lbs. The capacity is about 80 cubic feet, making it an excellent option for most divers.  The tank accept both DIN and Yoke type of valves.  With this, it can easily be converted forth and back.  The durable tank has a working pressure of 3000 psi.

Features

• 31.6lbs in weight
• 40% nitrox ready
• 3000 psi working pressure

3. Sherwood Aluminum 100 Cubic Feet Scuba Tank

Do you need a scuba tank with high capacity?  Here is a tank with up to 100 cubic feet, making it great for all divers.  The good news is that the scuba tank has a working pressure of 3300 psi and a length of up to 30.3-inches including the valve.  It features in different colors, which makes it elementary to find your favorite color.  The tank isn’t that heavy as it weighs about 46.2lbs.

Features

• 3300 psi working pressure
• 100 cubic feet capacity
• 46.2lbs in weight

4. Luxfer Aluminum Scuba Tank 80 Cubic Feet

The Luxfer Aluminum Tank is a high-quality scuba tank with a pro valve.  The heavy-duty valve ensures an efficient and high flow capacity.  It has been constructed from quality aluminum alloy material for long-term use.  Moreover, the scuba diving tank is also corrosion resistant; hence appropriate for all divers irrespective of the dive time.  The tank has been certified by DOT and it is up to 23.5% nitrox ready.

Features

• Heavy-duty valve
• 23.5% nitrox ready
• Aluminum alloy construction
• Corrosion resistant

5. Luxfer Aluminum Pony Scuba Diving Tank

With this aluminum scuba tank, you are guaranteed a long-term service.  This is due to the fact that it has been built from quality and corrosion resistant aluminum alloy.  Besides this, the tank features a pro heavy-duty valve to deliver an efficient and high flow capacity.  It is about 23.5% nitrox ready and since it has been certified by DOT to exceed all specifications, it is recommended for all divers.

Features

• Nitrox ready to 23.5%
• Meets DOT specifications
• Aluminum alloy built
• Heavy-duty valve

Top Steel Scuba Diving Tanks

1. XS Scuba Faber Steel High-Pressure Tank

This is a high-pressure tank with a capacity of 80 cubic feet.  The tank has a weight of 28.6lbs and can accommodate nitrox up to about 40% of its capacity.  Besides this, the tank features a physical vapor deposition finish, which makes it great for long-term use.  The round bottom cylinder is great for all divers and with the Teflon coated valve seat, you will find it great for diving.

Features

• 80 cubic feet capacity
• Round bottom
• O-ring sealed bonnet

2. Faber High-Pressure Steel Scuba Tank

The Faber steel tank is currently bringing the new innovation on the market.  This is why it has been greatly recommended by the divers and professionals.  The tank is about 40% nitrox ready and due to the design, it will comfortably enhance optimum weight distribution.  This is because you can always get rid of the lead weight away from the integrated weight system.  Second, to this, the steel tank can easily be converted back and forth thanks to the DIN/K valve.

Features

• DIN/K valve type
• Chromium molybdenum steel
• Ergonomic design

3. Faber Low-Pressure Diving Steel Scuba Tank

When you need a highly durable low-pressure tank, this is an exceptional selection.  The tank is constructed using the highest quality of chromium molybdenum steel material.  The round bottom cylinder makes it ergonomic and great for all divers.  More interestingly, it has a working pressure of about 2640 Psi and a weight of 31.2lbs.  Just like other Faber tanks, it also features a DIN/K type of valve.  This is why you can easily convert it back and forth based on the initial stage regulator; hence a widely versatile tank.

Features

• Cylinder boot
• Round bottom cylinder
• 40% nitrox ready
• Rugged construction

4. Faber Hot Dip High-Pressure Galvanized Steel Tank

Featuring a heavy-duty DIN/K valve, it is an ergonomic steel tank you can convert back and forth.  The durable tank has been designed from chromium molybdenum steel to keep it durable.  You can, therefore, use it for years.  In addition to this, it also features a marine chrome plated brass finish to keep it from corrosion and scratches.  The tank is 40% Nitrox ready and supports even weight distribution.

Features

• Marine chrome plated brass finish
• Round bottom design
• DIN/K valve

5. Faber 23 High-Pressure Steel Scuba Tank Only

For better support during when diving, here is a perfect diving tank, which will evenly support an optimum weight distribution.  It has an ergonomic design and always nitrox ready to 40%.  It is a highly durable steel scuba tank designed from quality chromium molybdenum steel and has a rugged construction.  It also features two different colors for easy selection.

Features

• Round cylinder bottom
• Chromium molybdenum steel built
• 40% nitrox ready

With the above selections of steel and aluminum scuba tanks, you can now find the ideal scuba tank.  The tanks are highly durable due to the quality and corrosion resistant constructions.  Apart from this, they are also safe and suit all levels of divers.  The widely versatile tanks are either 40% or 23.5% nitrox ready, which makes them ideal options; hence the best scuba tanks to try out.

To monitor your dive, the use of a dive computer is recommended.  The use of modern dive computers actually reduces the risk of the dreaded decompression sickness considerably, since all the data needed is available in real time.  However, this requires the correct handling of the device.  It is essential that you familiarize yourself with the equipment in detail and have the computer service performed regularly.

Dive computers – What types are there?

The basis of a dive computer: basic functions

There are some basic features that every modern dive computer should have.

The zero-time display.  This is the heart of the dive computer, because it indicates how long you can safely stay at the current depth.  This no-stop time (basic time) is given in minutes and should be clearly visible on the display.  The computer calculates this value from the dive time and the depth , which should also be read at a glance.  On some models, you can also activate an audible warning when the maximum depth and dive time are reached.

Another basic feature that many devices have today is Nitrox mode .  Increasing the oxygen content of the air in your bottle reduces the proportion of nitrogen accordingly, which increases the no-stop time.  To correctly calculate the new no-stop time, the dive computer must be equipped with a Nitrox mode.  Most dive computers can calculate a mixing ratio of a maximum of 40 – 50 percent, which is sufficient for the scuba diving.

Ascending safety stops significantly reduce the risk of decompression sickness.  All devices have a feature that helps you comply with this safety issue.  The too fast ascent warning is also a factor most dive computers offer.  Only in the sensitivity of the alarm, the models differ.

Not getting into an plane after diving, due to the ambient pressure is well known.  A dive computer display your no-fly time.

If you’ve ever gone Scuba diving at any point in your life, then you know there’s a lot of extra weight between the scuba tank, all the pressure gauges, the tank bangers, and the regulators.  All this weight affects your tendency to float, which is why you need equipment that balances all this out and improves your positive buoyancy.  It is for this precise reason that the scuba diving Buoyancy Compensator Device (BCD) was invented.

Source: Buoyancy Compensators | SCUBA 101

A Buoyancy Compensation Devices, or a BC, as it is commonly abbreviated, is a piece of diving equipment that features inflatable bladders worn by divers that balances your buoyancy levels depending on where you are during the diving process.  The idea is to neutralize the gravity pull, especially when you’re underwater by manually adjusting the volume of air in these inflatable bladders.

The main idea behind this process is to maintain a neutral buoyancy when you are underwater, preventing you from sinking to the bottom of the ocean due to the average weight of your Scuba gear.

These bladders are filled with air from the diver’s main oxygen cylinder (air tank) using a low-pressure hose that is regulated by a regulator attached to the air tank.  The placement of the BC is mostly around the torso and behind the diver, which is primarily due to ergonomic movement and mostly to maximize the safety of the unit.  This piece of equipment, although crucial, requires a lot of operational knowledge and attention to detail, not just because the adjustment process is predominantly manual, but also due to the fact that buoyancy varies depending on depth.

Source: BCD Myths Fact Or Fiction

History of the BCD/BC

The Buoyancy Compensation Device actually dates back to the 1950s, a period when cave diving was becoming popular.  Cave divers at the time were intent on improving their bottom times, so they began to add more equipment to their scuba gear in an attempt to increase the period of time they could spend underwater.  The problem came in when instead of being able to hover over the exploration area, all the extra gear just made them sink to the sea bed.

Source: Vintage Scuba: BCD Evolution, From Lifevest to Fenzy – S06E02

Necessity being the mother of invention, these cave divers came up with an ingenious way to maintain neutral buoyancy by adding two empty jerry cans to the now heavy equipment.

So in addition to the two steel tanks, line reels and external battery, the two empty jerry cans were hooked to their dive harnesses, at which point the divers added air from regulators till the cans became buoyant enough to let them to hover, as opposed to sinking.  This marked the birth of the Buoyancy Compensator Device.

Fast forward almost 70 years later and the craft has been refined to a point where abrasion resistant air bladders are now the material of choice, allowing divers to tune their hovering at any depth. The BCs are still manually operated though, so that’s still some what of a drawback.

How it works

The tendency to sink or float is significantly reliant on weight.  Think about it this way, if you have two 1 liter water bottles, and you fill one out with stones, and the other with foam, which one sinks?  The stones sink, of course.  The idea here is, buoyancy has more to do with relative weight as opposed to size.

If something happens to be heavier in comparison to the water it displaces, it sinks, and the reverse.  Case in point, if you put a rock in a scuba BC, it will sink, but if you put some air into it, while the rock is still in it, then the BC becomes larger due to air volumn without any relative increase in weight.  At this point, the rock in the BC becomes irrelevant, and the weight of water displaced by the compensator is less, so it floats!

Source: Diving tutorial UCPA #5 – How to use your BCD (jacket)

Additionally, neoprene wetsuits, although buoyant on the surface, become less so as the diver goes deeper.  The rules change every 60 feet or so, which is why the Buoyancy Compensator comes in handy.  You manually add air into the BC and you are able to regain buoyancy as you go deeper.

Another illustration is one pair of 2-liter soda bottles.  Fill one with steel ball-bearings and fill the other one will contain Styrofoam.  When immersed in water the one that is filled with ball-bearings will definitely sink while the other one will float.

Most people might attribute this phenomenon to the fact that there’s air inside the foam.  However, the scuba air tank also contains air and as a matter of fact, most scuba tanks will sink when full. The idea is not to struggle to maintain neutral bouyancy, the BC will ensure you can hover horizontally with as little effort as possible, which will help conserve oxygen provided by the air tank and prolong your scuba dive.

Types of BCs

The kind of scuba BC you pick depends on your level of diving expertise.  The Back Floatation BC for instance, is nifty if your main aim is effortless horizontal hovering.  The air bladder here is positioned between you and your scuba tank.  It is popular because of its size and relative convenience when maneuvering in confined spaces.  It also doesn’t squeeze in your sides while you dive, which makes it great as a dry suit accessory.

It’s one notable drawback is it doesn’t float you face up if you’re unconscious, which means it’s not really a good option for armature diving, and all its features are pretty much for cave and shipwreck divers.

Next on the list is the Horse Collar BC.  This concentrates the bulk of floatation on your neck and chest.  It’s mainly used by recreational divers simply because it floats you face up on the surface in case you are injured or exhausted while diving.  A drawback is you have to learn how to ride the buoyancy bubble as the horse collar could roll your face underwater as well.  If you don’t learn this skill before you use it you’ll have a tough time trying to hover with your face up.

Source: BCD Guide

The Front Adjustable BC came in much later as a variation of the Jacket Style BC.   This nifty piece of equipment is quite popular by virtue of the fact that you can custom fit it, and fine tune it to the specific diver.  This ensures that it stays comfortable, doesn’t wobble around and doesn’t feel like a burden as you swim.

Maintenance

Buoyancy Compensator Devices are actually very sensitive.  You need to know when and how to keep them clean and fully operational before you consider buying one.  The salty sea water may damage the bladder if you don’t take constant care of it.

BCs require constant rinsing after every diving session.  This needs to be done with clean, fresh water.  You also need to drain the water in the bladder after each session prior to rinsing.  It is also crucial to ensure the inside of the bladder is dry when you store it.

Source: Rinsing a BC

The bladder sides have a tendency to stick together, which is why it is recommended to store it with some air.  Heat is one among the main things that reduce the scuba BCs life span, so you need to keep away from anything that discharges any type of heat.  This includes direct sunlight, heaters, furnaces or even kitchen cookers.

When should you consider buying a BC

If you haven’t already begun diving, and you still have no clue as to what kind of diving you wish to pursue, then the best thing is to wait until you can get a professional dive instructor to help you find the right BC and proper fit.  Remember that Buoyancy Compensators are manually operated, so it is important to know how to use one before you buy one.

On the other hand, if you know what type of diving you’re into, and you’ve signed up to an open-water diving class, then you can always visit a pro-diving center and purchase your BC with your regulator equipment.  They work closely together.

What to look for

It’s not just about functionality, any diver will tell you that comfort and safety are just as crucial.  So what exactly should you look for?

Source: Choosing A BCD

First, in terms of utility value, your BC should have surface floatation capabilities.  This means it should be able to hold a sufficient amount of air, enough to allow you to swim with minimal effort and be as comfortable as possible.

Neutral buoyancy is also key.  The increase in pressure as you go deeper into the ocean will cause your BC to compress.  It should be easy enough to add or expel air from your compensator to ensure you maintain neutral buoyancy.  This will ensure you don’t sink to the bottom and you provide you with the ability maintain nuetral bouyancy at any depth.

Lastly, and perhaps the most important feature, is your ability to maintain how you control your descent.  Being able to release air effortlessly and have a smooth descent is key.  It’s all about safety here.  Going down too fast could make you panic, and you possibly react incorrectly with dangerous consequences.  Also, the air contained in your BC should be enough to help you comfortably keep your head above water while on the surface.

In Summary

Many divers end up with dysfunctional BCs because they have no idea what to look for when purchasing one.  If you don’t do your due diligence and find out what scuba diving compensation devices are and how to use them, then you could end up buying  a BC that is not functional for your style of scuba diving.

Before we dive into answering the question “€what are scuba diving wetsuits?”€™, I need to first explain what wetsuits are in general.  Wetsuits are clothes worn in or on water by divers, windsurfers, surfers, canoeist and others water sports enthusiasts.  They provide thermal insulation and protect divers from frictional wear and tear, ultra violet exposure and stings from sea creatures.

What Are Scuba Diving Wetsuits?

Scuba wetsuits are usually made from foamed neoprene combined with nylon or spandex.  They could be also made from by products of neoprene such as titanium, hyperstretch, and thermoprene. Neoprene is permeable and can contain a large number of tiny nitrogen bubbles which are ideal for insulation.  Wetsuits always keep you warm, whether you are jet skiing, scuba diving or surfing.

TYPES OF SCUBA DIVING WETSUITS

There are several types of scuba wetsuits.  Each one is suitable for certain temperatures, different weathers and different activities.

WARM WATER SHORTY

A warm water shorty is a kind of scuba wetsuit that does not cover the legs and the leggings end at the knee.  Warm water shorties are good for warm temperatures such as during the summer.
They give you free movement while still providing some warmth.  In addition to not having pant legs, they also don’t have sleeves.   So, all your limbs are free to move under water unrestricted.

WARM WATER WETSUITS

These are the longer versions of the aforementioned, they have legs and arms. Warm water wetsuits are great for temperatures from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  They give better protection against the sting of water creatures and cold. They also protect you against sunburn and are generally comfortable.

COLD WATER WETSUITS

It is easy to know what this wetsuit is all about; the name says it all.  Cold water wetsuits are used for water based activities during cold weathers and in temperatures as low as 45 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in winter.

These wetsuits protect you from hyperthermia while you are under water.  Cold water wetsuits are particularly useful in regions such as Oregon, California, New York, and Washington.  Some cold water wetsuits come with hoods to give you extra protection and retain more body heat.  Further, you can get a hood if your wetsuit comes without one.

TEMPERATE WEATHER WETSUIT

This type of wetsuit is in between a warm water wetsuit and a cold water wetsuit.  It is meant for cooler temperatures between 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.  It is suitable for places like Mexico.  The perfect place for a temperate weather wetsuit is one that is not too cold.

HOW TO CHOOSE SCUBA WETSUITS

There are many factors to consider in choosing a scuba diving wetsuit.  The following will give you insight regarding these issues so you can make a wise choice when you make your purchase.

CLIMATE

A shorty is okay for spring or summer.  However, you dare not use a shorty during the winter, for your own good.  Shorties are made from thinner materials because they are intended to be worn in warmer climes or during warmer seasons.

Full suits will give you better protection during winter and in colder climates. but would make you seem overdressed during the winter and in warm climates.  Wetsuits with thermal layering should also be considered for colder climates.  So, choose your wetsuit according to your climate.

DURATION UNDER WATER

You do not want to be caught wearing short sleeved or no pant wetsuits when you have to stay under water for a long time.  If you are swimming, skiing or diving for fun, you can get away with wetsuits made from thinner materials.

However, if you are in water to conduct a study, film sea life or conduct any lengthy activity, you should wear a full length suit to prevent the possibility of hypothermia.

DEPTH

It is important to understand that the deeper you go into water, the colder it becomes.  This is because the deeper you go, the farther you are from the sun.  The deeper you go, the more your wetsuit, which is made of neoprene, compresses and loses some degree of insulation.

A good number of wetsuits made from neoprene lose their insulation value at about 60 feet underneath the surface of water.  Therefore, if you are going to dive deep then get a wetsuit of the appropriate thickness for the depth of your dive.

DESIGN

If you are like me, then you are tired of the old, traditional, diagonal back zipper which goes straight down from one end of the spine to the other.  Thankfully there are modern, trendy and easy zippers which do not make you twist your arm each time you zip or unzip them.

These classy zippers are diagonally placed across the back, from the left hip to the right shoulder.  They are easier to take off, anytime.  You could also select a wetsuit with various patterns such as a floral pattern.  You could also remain loyal to the old brands and plain suits.  It is all up to you to either go for the regular designs or choose something more modern and comfortable.

AGE

Shorties are ideal for children in warm water activities because they keep them protected while allowing them room to move their limbs.

PRICE

In most situations, price influence which goods are eventually bought.  The price of a suit is influenced by its thickness and features.  Wetsuits could go for between 100 dollars to 500 dollars or more, depending on thickness.  Thicker wetsuits are usually blind stitched and glued which makes them more expensive because of the process and extra materials used to thicken them.

Lighter wetsuits, such as shorties, are cheaper because they undergo fewer processes and are made of fewer materials.  If you want to have a great time doing your water sports, it is best you buy the best suit suitable for your activity.

GENDER

The materials used to make wetsuits for men are the same with those used to make women’€™s wetsuits.  The major difference is that men’€™s suits are broader in the shoulders than women’€™s.  Women’™s suits however have room in the chest area to accommodate larger breasts.

Also, women’€™s wetsuits are wider in the hips and thighs.  There are also a range of colours and designs for women to appeal to their personal preference.

ACCESSORIES FOR SCUBA WETSUITS

There are several accessories that complement scuba wetsuits.  These accessories contribute to making your stay under water comfortable and pleasurable.  They include hoods, boots, gloves, rash guards and thermals.

HOODS

Hoods are worn over the head to keep in body heat.  They also protect the ears from water gushes and surfer’€™s ears.  They are also made from neoprene and can be attached to the wetsuit.  Just like suits, they come in various degrees of thickness.

BOOTS

Boots protect your feet from sharp stones under the water.  They also keep you warm and prevent body heat from escaping through your feet.  They come in two main types,€“ split toe or heavy duty socks.  Split toe has the big toe separated from the other toes, hence its name.  It allows freer movement.

GLOVES

Frozen hands are a no-no, if you really want to enjoy your scuba expedition. Grab a pair of surf gloves which come in various degrees of thickness for different temperatures.  Different types of gloves are available.  They include: five-finger gloves as well as three-finger gloves and mitten gloves, which have wider surface areas which assist in paddling.

RASH GUARDS

Rash guards also known as rash vest or rashie and are swim shirts used in warmer climates and paired with swimsuit bottoms or board shorts.  They are less restrictive and provide protection from the sun.  Therefore, they are great for hot days.  Rash guards protect the skin from sticky surfboards.  They also protect you from rashes caused by abrasion and sunburn from extended exposure to the sun.

Rash guards are made of light material and will not keep you warm under water.  They are best worn during the summer.  They could be worn alone or under wetsuits.  Due to their light texture, rashies do not offer protection against the stings of jellyfishes.

THERMALS

A thermal is the best gift you could buy yourself and your loved one for some scuba diving under the cold, freezing ocean.  They are made from polypropylene and protect you from extreme cold. Thermals also protect you from the wind.

They could be worn either as outer layer or inner layer, depending on how warm the water may be. Thermals come in different styles such as vests, shirts and shorts.  They also come in various designs.

SCUBA WETSUIT MAINTAINENCE

These are a few basic steps towards maintaining your scuba wetsuit so it remains as good as new and maintains its insulation quality.  Firstly, rinse off with fresh water.  Never use hot or warm water to rinse off your wetsuit.  This is because neoprene suits lose their flexibility in warm water.

Secondly, wash with wetsuit cleaner.  Hang away from direct heat because sunlight makes neoprene lose flexibility.  Store the suit on a wetsuit hanger or a heavy hanger.  Do not fold your wetsuit so you don’€™t weaken the material.